Varanasi

We had great abitions to get up at 5:30 and catch a boat ride to see the sun rise on the Ganges River, but given our exausting 17 hour train ride yesterday, we ended up sleeping in. Instead opted for a walk through the Ghats that line the Ganges. We took a wrong turn out of our hotel and ended up far in the wrong direction, so caught a cycle rickshaw to Dasawamedh Ghat, one of the main areas to bathe or pray. The trip there was slow going through congested streets full of traffic, people and cows. It's a bit strange being pulled along by a very thin little man on a bicycle - seems quite inhumane especially on the uphill stetches. But he was overjoyed to give us a ride (it's his livelihood), and even did his best to give us a bit of a tour guide narrative. Unfortunately, he didn't speak English, but we smiled and nodded appreciatively anyway.


It was really hazy out, so our pictures are all a bit grey looking. It really doesn't do the scene justice. We spent the rest of the day walking back along the river past crowds of people praying, doing their laundry, and taking baths, bodies being cremated, cattle and water buffalo sleeping, and boats floating along. It's quite a sight. The water is less than appealing with lots of garbage, and black/grey scum but people have such a firm belief that it will bring healing/blessing/freedom from the cycle of life if you die there, that they carry on anyway. 60 000 pilgrams bathe there every day, not to mention the 400 million people that live along its shores. Apparently the water has been tested and is actually septic. It has1.5 million faecal coliform bacteria per 100mL of water and water safe for swimming should have less than 500 (according to our LP). Yep, pretty gross. But it certainly says something about the power of faith/desperation of many people. Nasty water aside, it was still well worth seeing, just for the spectacle of it all. We stopped at a roof top resturant for a coke and had a great close up view of some kite flying/fighting by kids big and little. Then had just enough time to get back to our hotel to grab our bags, buy an extra book (in the event of another extended train ride) and catch a rickshaw to the train station.

For more photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jesperbot/sets/72157594488100183/